This article originally appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Startups Magazine. Click here to subscribe

The price we pay for leather

Leather has long been a staple across industries, from luxury handbags to car interiors, but its production comes at a high cost. Traditional animal leather contributes to deforestation, greenhouse gas emissions, and animal welfare concerns, yet the alternative is often no better as it relies heavily on plastics which only adds to the growing problem of microplastics in the environment.

"Brands want to move away from animal leather, but the alternative – synthetic leathers made entirely of plastic – creates another problem," said Downs. 

However, as consumers become more aware of the impact of leather, demand for sustainable options has pressured industries to reconsider their materials. 

“Our mission was to create something that is indestructible while the consumer is carrying it, but when it hits landfill, it knows that it's time to magically start breaking down. Making something that's strong, durable, yet biodegradable is no small task.” 

Uncaging innovative biomaterials

Building on her background in business, marketing, and animal welfare advocacy, Downs co-founded Uncaged Innovations to address the sustainability and welfare challenges in the leather industry. Her experience with organisations like PETA, combined with the success of her plant-based meat company in India laid the perfect groundwork for Uncaged.

"For me, it's very mission-driven. I saw the power of bringing solutions to companies that could solve a problem rather than just pointing out the issues." 

Uncaged Innovations developed a proprietary material ‘ Elevate,’ and unlike its competitors, Elevate is high-quality, plastic-free, and versatile across industries, and it is designed to plug seamlessly into existing manufacturing systems – which further cuts down the need for shipping, another industry which contributes to climate change. 

Funding and growth

A standout moment for Downs is when Uncaged Innovations closed a challenging funding round in a turbulent economic climate. 

"To close a funding raise in this climate is special in a way that words cannot describe. People are amazed that we closed the round – it was definitely a ‘what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger’ kind of project."

Another big boon for the company’s growth was securing a second investment from Jaguar Land Rover, a move that Downs sees as validation of their approach. Not only that, the company has also entered a partnership with a major fashion house and unveiled its Elevate material with a collection of ten global boutique brands. As with anything that Downs does, this initiative, dubbed "The Collective," intentionally spans nine countries and features diverse applications – from luxury jewellery to high-end pet accessories.

Scaling sustainably

Being a laser focused businesswoman, Downs has grown Uncaged Innovation’s team and operations carefully, embracing what she calls an “MVT” (minimum viable team) model. With only six employees and $2 million in initial funding, the company moved from concept to full-scale production, however, Downs made this lean time work and her diligence paid off. Now, post-funding, the team has doubled in size.

"We’ve brought on a full-time marketing person and expanded our R&D team to include experts in manufacturing and material science, but we’re not planning to grow to 50 people; we just don’t need that, so we're currently at 12, and then we're still using contractors for other things.” 

Uncaged prioritises sustainability at every stage of scaling, so instead of building its own factory, the company partnered with existing manufacturers to leverage their infrastructure, a strategy that has helped to accelerate production while keeping costs low.

The future of sustainable materials

It’s not hard to see why the company’s material is gaining traction across the globe. The material is designed to look and feel just like leather while offering customisation in colour, texture, and even fragrance. 

"We can make it smell like leather, vanilla, or even a brand’s signature scent. This customisation is much more interesting to brands than I initially imagined." 

The  versatility and sustainability credentials of the biomaterial have attracted many brands who are seeking alternatives that align with their eco-conscious goals. 

"We’ve even been approached about applications ranging from private jet interiors to basketballs. It’s exciting to see the potential." 

During her tenure with PETA, Downs led negotiations with Tesla which resulted in the company's decision to offer animal-free leather options in its vehicles. 

“I like to think that what I did with Tesla has had this ripple effect that is really affecting the whole industry, which brings me a lot of happiness.”

Looking ahead, the company plans to adapt its core material for additional markets, including footwear and automotive interiors, where durability requirements are more stringent. 

Advice for sustainable materials entrepreneurs

Reflecting on her journey, Downs advises others navigating the sustainability space to: “Stay lean. Keep your team small and your operations focused. And remember, you can’t build a business off a cool idea alone – it has to meet market needs, be scalable, and be high-quality."

She has her four pillars of business, which are to focus on the quality, price, scalability, and then sustainability.  

“I don't put sustainability last because it’s not important, but you can have the most sustainable product in the world, but if it's not good quality, it's not scaling, or it's too expensive, it's not going to matter. So keep sustainability at the core, but make sure it meets the other demands.” 

Finding the right partner or investor who shares in your vision is another key point of ensuring that your business stays focused on its ultimate goal. 

"Choosing the right lead investor is crucial. You’re essentially married to them, so they need to align with your goals and be there for the tough times."

The road ahead

Given the remarkability of Uncaged Innovations’ product, it is certainly poised to become a leader in sustainable materials, especially seeing as it has plans to expand its leather alternatives portfolio – of which the combined leather and alternative market is valued at $150 billion. 

Excitingly, the company also announced that Noel Kinder, former Chief Sustainability Officer at Nike, will join its board of directors – a significant endorsement from one of the industry’s most respected f igures and a great addition to the team considering their move into the footwear industry. 

“He's well-known, well respected, as he was in the footwear industry for 25 years. He's a great gift for us as a company.”